When I got married on
an April 6th all those decades ago, among the wedding gifts I
received was Better Homes & Gardens
Cooking
for Two. A few years ago, I downsized my obsessive
collection of cookbooks. But Cooking
for Two was one of the few dozens I kept. Some keepers were chosen for sentimental
reasons, others for the frequency of us, some were cherished gifts.
Cooking for Two is only 96 pages, the last ten of which are devoted to The
ABCs of Cooking for Two – equipment,
shopping lists, food storage, little tips
for big successes, substitutions for ingredients, guidelines, herbs, hints
on wine, ways with cheese.
My copy has browned
pages, torn pages, pages assaulted by spills & splatters, stars indicating
favorite recipes, notes in the margins, measurements that have been completely
obliterated by use & neglect.
Much like the text of
my life.
The other night I made
one of my tried & truly delicious recipes from the Easy on the Budget Main Dishes section – Oven Beef Stew.
For decades, I have
attempted to duplicate my mother Jean’s beef stew. At times I came close – but almost only
counts in horseshoes & hand grenades.
Each attempt was both
a failure & a challenge.
Oven Beef Stew answered the challenge.
Not because it tasted like my memory of Jean’s stew – but because it became
a frequent visitor in my culinary life.
It involves red wine & a massive amount of basil.
After tucking the Oven Beef Stew in the oven for its two-hour
journey, I picked up Cooking for Two & looked through
the pages, trying to remember where, why & with whom I shared the results
of the starred & stained recipes over the decades.
And then, in the Remembered
Recipes Tailored for Two chapter I spotted a
starred recipe in the Meal Plans Just for Two section: Oven Swiss Steak.
And I thought about
Willa, my now deceased ex-mother in law.
Willa was a different
kind of cook than my mother Jean. She
melted processed American cheese slices over plates of spaghetti. She made tuna fish sandwiches with mustard
& pecans. She served chipped beef
over toast for breakfast. She put
giblets in the gravy at Thanksgiving & Christmas.
The giblets totally
grossed me out.
But Willa also made
some amazing dishes – fried shrimp (I
still use her recipe), a fierce roast beef, yellow squash with onions &
cheese, a moist turkey with cornbread dressing & three kinds of pies on
holidays. And always, two cakes from her
favorite bakery – Italian Cream & German Chocolate.
And of course. Swiss Steak – previously unknown to my palate. The other night, I made Oven
Swiss Steak from Better Homes & Gardens' Cooking for Two.
And reminisced about
Willa.
About all the
egregious, unforgivable, toxic moments she brought into my life.
Moments that fueled my need to escape my
marriage to her son.
Willa called me Cindy, her son’s previous girlfriend,
for months. She made corned beef brisket
every Sunday we visited – which was just about every Sunday until we joined
South Main Baptist Church.
At the time, I was
certain I did not care for corned beef.
Once, my father-in-law, in my presence, asked her why she always cooked
corned beef when she knew I did not like it.
Her reply was: My son
likes it.
(Note: I learned to love corned beef via my friend Susan Foster. I also learned to appreciate dove breasts held together by a toothpick with a slice of jalapeno, fried & served with gravy from Susan.)
Willa & my
father-in-law were at least twenty something years older than my parents. My spouse was their youngest son. They married a bit later than others at the
time, waited seven years to have their first son & then another seven before
they had my spouse.
The family joke was
that they only had sex twice.
I remember being
astonished at the possibility that a married couple would only have sex every
seven years. My parents had four
children in thirteen years.
Looking back, the lack
of a prolific sex life must have been an inherited trait.
Memory is elusive,
written upon by time & perception & growth.
All of Willa’s drama,
so egregious at the time, no longer angers or befuddles me.
Calling me by a former
girlfriend’s name, repeating a conversation about my appearance (she thought I
was beautiful – my father-in-law disagreed & pronounced me pretty but not
beautiful), confronting my mother Jean at the wedding because Jean wore a long
dress & Willa wore a short dress & Jean should have told Willa to wear
a long dress, laughing with my sister-in-law about how I ironed on the wrong
side of the ironing board, the dramatic feigned heart attack, admonishing me
because I did not prepare her son’s plate or let him win at backgammon, & the accusation that I had searched for
& examined the contents of her checkbook.
That one still pisses
me off from time to time. In our all too
many weekend visits, we took our laundry & I took my school books.
I did the laundry
& I studied. (And ironed on the wrong side of the ironing board.) My
spouse watched sports with his father or worked in the massive garden he had
installed on his parents’ land.
One afternoon, during
what proved to be the last weekend visit for months, I set up my books &
notebooks on the dining room table. The
dining area was a fine, sunny, impressive room outside the kitchen & only
used for holiday meals & my weekend studies. An entire wall contained a built-in china
cabinet, complete with drawers & storage cabinets.
I no longer remember
if I needed a pen or a pencil or a pencil sharpener, but I asked Willa if she
had what I needed & she directed me to the far-right drawer on the cabinet
wall.
I found what I needed
& went back to folding laundry & studying.
It was still afternoon
when my spouse came in & asked me if I had rummaged through the far-right
drawer & looked into Willa’s check book.
Because, he explained, his mother had
witnessed me snooping into her check book.
It was a true What
the fuck? moment. But in those days, I had not yet learned to
think what the fuck, much
less scream it out loud.
He seemed convinced
that my snooping into someone’s check book was something less than
unthinkable. He kept insisting that his
mother insisted that she saw me take out the check book & snoop.
Somewhere in the midst
of all his questions – are you sure you
didn’t take it out while you were looking for a pen (or pencil or pencil
sharpener)? – I drew the first line.
I gathered my things,
my clothes, my purse & keys & got into my VW Bug & drove to the
house that Jean & Jack built.
Jean listened. She touched my arm & listened as I spoke
& ranted & asked what the fuck in different words.
Eventually my spouse
found me at the house that Jack & Jean built.
Jean had the
look – the one with a raised eyebrow.
She listened as he apologized, begged me to come home with him. She listened as he tried to defend Willa’s
accusations
.
And when he was
finally done rationalizing, Jean spoke:
In all my daughter’s
life, I have never seen her this unhappy.
I have never seen this look on her face.
If you are unable or unwilling to stand up to your mother, to support
your wife, then you need to return my daughter to her father & to me. I don't want to see this look again.
That day, Jean
reinforced her unconditional love for & support of me.
Knowingly or
unknowingly, Willa gave me the first line.
And made it possible for me to leave when the final line was crossed.
My mother-in-law’s story
was complicated. It is easier, now that
time & experience have written across the text of my memory, to remember
that.
Willa grew up in
Montalba, Texas & was one of two siblings. Her brother was the favored child wonder. Her father died when she was young – the
story goes that he developed pneumonia one winter because he refused to use the
chamber pot & insisted on defying the inclement weather to use the
outhouse.
Willa’s mother was a
talented seamstress & that talent supported the family after her husband
died. Single mothers were not the norm
in Montalba, Texas. My spouse told me
that his grandmother developed a loose reputation – real or imagined or
invented by gossips.
Willa never graduated
from high school. But she was incredibly
articulate. I was blown away by her
vocabulary. An avid & ardent reader,
she did not follow in her seamstress mother’s craft.
Instead, she developed
amazing secretarial skills & was a legend at the typewriter. Willa met my father-in-law at a dance.
My spouse’s father
Barney came from a well to do railroad family in Palestine, Texas. He was the youngest of four siblings. It was after he used a fire at home to
withdraw from Texas A&M that he met Willa.
Willa always felt she
married up - & she married into a family of siblings who welcomed her. Her mother’s heart was firmly focused on Willa’s
brother. Long before & long after his death.
Barney’s family absorbed her & gave her
equal sibling footing & focus.
Even though Willa’s
brother was the favored child, Willa’s mother moved in & was waiting when
Willa & Barney returned from their honeymoon.
My spouse’s
grandmother left Willa & Barney’s house only twice. Once, when Willa begged her brother to invite
their mother for a visit. (Brother sent
Mama home after three days.) The next time Willa’s mother left was when she
died.
I often think about
Willa’s history & how it formed her.
Just as her own mother chose a favorite, Willa chose her youngest son.
In spite of all those
manipulations, all the guilting, all the drama, Willa was, in her rather
strange way, good to me.
She encouraged me in
pursuit of my education. More than once,
she insisted on paying for my tuition & my books, even when I told her my
father was set to do it. Twice a year,
she bought me a working wardrobe. (apparently,
my Big Smith overalls did not meet her standards.) She spent time with me, sharing her stories,
sharing the text of her life.
She loved musicals
& she loved that I watched them with her.
We talked about books we were reading, about books we both had read.
A long time, almost a
year, passed between the incident of the check book allegation & my
reappearance into the family fold.
My spouse had continued to
visit his parents without me. I continued to stay
at home & read, waiting for someone, anyone, to apologize & absolve me
of the allegation.
The one thing I missed
while staying at home was my niece, with whom I shared a massive mutual admiration.
Willa, always aware of
the potential for manipulation, set the scene for my return to the family fold,
with her granddaughter as bait.
Telling her favored
son that our niece missed me & was asking for me every time she made the
trip from Dallas to Houston.
In the end, I
succumbed & accompanied my spouse to his parents’ house.
To see that
seven-year-old wonder child.
No one apologized, no
one absolved me, no one withdrew the accusation. Part of me no longer cared – my niece truly
was a wonder child.
But Willa had given me
the gift of drawing the line.
And when that line was
crossed, I left everything, even her chosen son & that precious wonder child, on the opposite side of the line.
I did not eat any of Cooking
for Two’s Oven Swiss Steak tonight. My
brother declared it awesome.
It was not, of course,
Willa’s recipe. It was my attempt to
recall a memory, a taste of what was fine about her.
Perhaps another day,
another attempt.
But not today. Some memories are still left on the opposite
side of the line Willa made possible.
Willa, Barney, Jaki
Jean & Willa’s Favored Son